Tough, high power (24-Watt) voltage dropping reducer resistor for use in a 6v to 12-volt alternator conversion where you want to continue using a 6-volt motor, horn, solenoid (maybe) or other constant voltage accessory. This is not for gauges or electronics. Very few folks will want them for relays or light bulbs; it’s not impossible but there are usually better ways to go. Forget universal blower motor resistors; one size does not fit all. Use the proper voltage drop device so to get the correct operation and maximum life from your accessories. Too fast (high volts) and the duct, wiper blades, etc can be damaged while the operation can be noisy and annoying; too slow (low voltage) and it doesn't get the job done properly while shortening the life of the accessory.
These are stud mount; hole in the fire wall or separate plate that is then a heat sink. A voltage reducer must dissipate the excess 6V as heat. One voltage drop resistor, regulator, or reducer might be putting out the same heat as a 30-watt light bulb when you are operating your accessory so it is good when a voltage reducer is fastened to a heat sink to keep the temperature down.
Here's how it works. One reducer for one 4-amp accessory. A wiper motor may be 4A. An 8-amp motor takes two voltage reducers wired in parallel. A blower motor might be 8A; or it may be closer to 12-amps which would require 3 voltage reducers in parallel. A horn might be 10-amps.
These are simple and safe to use but that assumes some basic electrical knowledge and reasonably good sense. These are designed and sold for use by auto mechanics and total dummies should not try this at home or anywhere else. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
You don't know the amps but you can determine the correct number of voltage reducers. Measure the resistance (ohms) or like this; if you have a blower motor you connect two voltage reducers in parallel to your motor, put your voltmeter across the motor to see that voltage (motor-in to ground), and turn it on only long enough to come up to speed and read the volts; 6.3 - 6.8V is real nice but anything between 5.7V to 7.5V will be ok; 8V if you have to but I do not like 5V on a 6V accessory. You may need to add or remove a voltage reducer to get the voltage right. Comes with pictures and instructions and you can also email me with questions. Send me your regular email address so we can keep a running copy of any conversation.
A guy with a blower and wiper motor should buy three voltage reducers so he will have enough to experiment on the different accessories yet will probably not end up with more voltage reducers than he needs. Get a couple more if you have a horn.
Total dummies should not try this at home or anywhere else. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Couple of things: one, the accessory must be final voltage tested and that final voltage test must be in actual use, in-place driving the wiper blades on the windshield, blower in the duct work, or whatever. You cannot remove most accessories, certainly not motors, to the bench to experiment to find the correct voltage. You cannot test motor voltage or amps under a no-load condition; no way. Resistance is a physical constant so you can test that on a bench or whatever and you test resistance with no voltage applied. Two, momentary application of high or low voltage will not harm a 6V accessory that is in reasonably good condition. Most auto electrics are not fragile things. Low batteries, arcing/sparking generators, whacked voltage regulators, and years of battery jumps have challenged your accessories far more than this little bit of high/low volt experimentation. However, if your accessory is damaged or worn-out junk then it may not survive the testing. Know that I am not giving any warranty that covers any accessory or anything other than the voltage reducer and also if you do somehow manage to melt or burn-up my voltage reducer then I don't want it back; it's still yours.
This voltage reducer is 1-1/4” x 1-1/4" x 1-1/2”.
I have other gizmos for gauges and ignition coils:
Thanks for the look and happy motoring.
